"S" is for Sweet Lucy's Smokehouse

In many parts of the country -- Memphis, the Carolinas, Texas -- barbecue is king. Now, they all have their own internal spats about whose is better -- wet vs. dry rub, tangy vs. smoky -- which can get pretty emotional. I have read plenty about these national barbecue competitions where the competitors rig up some sort of elaborate contraption in which to cook their meat and then break down in tears if they don't win. It's all very macho.

And yet, for all that Philly does well food-wise, it's been mostly a barbecue graveyard. There have been a few mediocre places that have come and gone -- I'm reminded of a place I actually liked in the Symphony House (or thereabouts) that was here and gone within a matter of months. Recently, however, there have been rumblings about real barbecue coming into Center City from real chefs with real reputations. Alas, I'll believe it when I see it.

In the meantime, we're left with some reputable joints dotting the outer ring of the city, such as Sweet Lucy's Smokehouse. It's about a 20-25 minute drive from downtown straight up 95N off the Cottman Ave. exit. It's actually quite easy to find, though not so easy to figure out how to get back on the interstate once you are done eating. Regardless, it's not a whole lot to look at -- it looks sort of like a big warehouse with a parking lot attached.

Inside, it's pretty much no frills as well -- the menu is on a few chalkboards up front to look at before you order. It's pretty much barbecue as you would expect it -- ribs, pork, chicken, mashed potatoes, corn, baked beans, etc. You go up to the counter, put in your order, and wait a few minutes to be called. No waitresses, no frills, no unrealistic costs. And that was all fine with me -- I love myself ribs and pulled pork sandwiches, at least when they are done well. I don't need the fancy frills, just the good food. And Sweet Lucy's proved to be worth the drive.

I fought getting a pulled pork sandwich and ended up splitting a full rack of ribs with the wife. They came with two sides of our choice (we went with mashed sweet potatoes and baked beans). The ribs were not the best I had ever had -- a little too much on the dry side, but they were pretty meaty and slathered with some very good barbecue sauce. The potatoes were OK, as were the beans. The best part of the meal may have been the homemade cornbread -- it was really, really good. Very flaky and buttery. Plus, they gave each of us a big piece. Overall, though, it was hearty, no nonsense barbecue. It wasn't quite on par with my favorite of adulthood -- Dinosaur Barbecue -- that I wrote up months ago, but it was not a bad local substitute. Just proves that leaving the city for a good meal can sometimes be worth it.

On to the full review...

THE FOOD: Not to be nitpicky (OK, to be nitpicky), but tasty side dishes should be a given at a barbecue joint. Especially with core ones like baked beans. As with other barbecue favorites, I love good baked beans (one of my favorite things to make) and Sweet Lucy's just came up a little empty. It didn't detract too much from the overall meal, but it would have been a nice closing touch if they were better.

THE DRINK: Water and soda. It's not a drinking establishment.

THE STAFF: They confused our potatoes initially (I should have picked up on it when I was asked if I wanted gravy with my potatoes, but I wasn't quite swift enough), but they substituted the sweet for the white potatoes without a question. The girl who took our order was nice enough to explain how the menu works to the wife, as well.

MAD PROPS FOR: Two things. First of all, they had a self serve cauldron of extra rib mop sauce that you could use to douse your ribs in if you so desire. And I so desired. Secondly, they had a roll of paper towel on a stand at every table. Look, when you eat barbecue, you are going to get messy. Why bother with dainty napkins? I would have loved wet naps at the end of the meal, but I didn't see any around. Oh well.

OVERALL: Tucked away as it is, it's easy to wonder where Sweet Lucy's gets its business from. Do people drive from the city or is mostly a neighborhood joint? It was hard to tell from the clientele, which was a mix of young and old. If you are a barbecue afficianado, Sweet Lucy's is worth the drive, thought it's not a "OH MY GOD, THIS IS FANTASTIC!" place. It's good, inexpensive, quality, quick food. We were in and out in about 35-40 minutes.

THE CHECK: $28.50 total. That's the upside of no wait staff.

On to the Ts...

Ineligible restaurants for round 19:

• Table 31 -- There was incredible hype around Table 31 when it opened in the Comcast Building a little more than a year ago. I had a very underwhelming meal there and the shine has definitely worn off. I wouldn't be surprised if it shutters its doors one of these days soon.
• Tampopo -- A favorite lunch stop of mine near the office. There are actually at least three branches open now, including one in West Philly. The bi bim bom is excellent.
• Ten Stone -- A step above a dive bar, but not a big step.
• TGI Friday's -- I'm not embarassed to admit that Friday's was gourmet cuisine to me when I was younger.
• Tierra Colombiana -- If you want a pricey meal in a very sketchy neighborhood, Tierra Colombiana is your place. Just don't forget to lock your car doors. And honestly, the food isn't that great either.
• Tiffin -- What an impact Tiffin has had on the Philly delivery scene. Still the best Indian food you can order over the phone and have at your door in an hour or two.
• Tinto -- The second of Jose Garces' gleaming jewels. The layout is odd (definitely sit upstairs) but the food is interesting and yummy.
• Trio -- I have no clue how this Fairmount joint is still open. Really bad location and really mediocre food.
• Twenty Manning -- Perhaps my favorite upscale place for a drink. The chairs are very cool.

Candidates for round 19:

• Taqueria La Veracruzana -- One of a handful of Mexican joints down by the Italian Market with a good reputation. http://www.taqueriaveracruzana.com/
• 10 Arts -- Big name chef Eric Ripert's first entree into Philadelphia near the theatres. http://www.10arts.com/
• Time -- It's known more for its weekend party atmosphere and bizarre drinks. but they also have a relatively ambitous menu. http://www.timerestaurant.net/
• Tony Luke's -- I can't believe I have never eaten at Tony Luke's (not even the one in Citizen's Bank). But can it possibly live up to John's Roast Pork? http://www.tonylukes.com/