"A" is for Azul Cantina

There are some street corners in Philadelphia -- and probably elsewhere -- that just have a restaurant curse. You can put the best chef with the nicest kitchen and the tastiest food in there, but since there have been so many losers in that spot, people just won't come. The spectre of failure is just too much to overcome. The space simply cannot be adapted to a new concept -- it needs to be ripped down, the demons exorcised, and rebuilt in a totally different way. Unfortunately, that ain't cheap and that ain't easy.

It's too soon to tell if Azul Cantina will be this sort of restaurant. Located at the corner at 10th and Spruce, it would seem to be a solid choice for a mid-level Mexican restaurant. There are monied residents, two hospitals, and some parking (though not a ton). But it's a location that has not fared well in the past -- there used to be a nondescript pizza joint, followed by Sauce, a shortlived gourmet pizza place. Neither place thrived. It's a dark corner sort of tucked between the dining destinations of Queen's Village, Rittenhouse, and the 13th St. corridor (whatever that neighborhood is called) so it's easy to overlook. And that's a shame, because there is a lot to like about Azul Cantina's food, if not their decor.

Philadelphia has seen the rise of several good Mexican restaurants the past few years -- Xochitl, Las Bugamlilias, Tequila, and Las Cazuelas all fill a needed niche. Mexican food done well offers complex but familiar flavors and can be so much more than beef and cheese tacos, burritos, and enchiladas. I like good Mexican food a lot, so it's nice to have places to choose from. Here is the rundown on Azul Cantina.

THE FOOD -- Azul Cantina doesn't have a complicated menu with unusual entrees, although a few of the items seemed odd (a New York strip steak special just didn't seem right -- either did the 8 oz. pork chop), but for the most part, its menu hits the mark. The habanero guacamole was excellent, although it didn't have any of the habanero kick to it. I had the pork tacos, which were also quite good. The shrimp tacos and bean and cheese enchiladadas also went over well with the others in our party of 4. There were few complaints here -- the plates were plentiful and not too expensive.

THE DRINKS -- Azul Cantina offers a lot of drink choices, especially for tequilla lovers, with various tequilla flights as well as margaritas, mojitos, and other specialty drinks. We stuck with the margaritas, which were available in various flavors. The watermelon was the best of the bunch. Stay away from the fizzy mojitos -- something just wasn't right about those.

THE DECOR -- It was relatively nice, but it lacked some finishing touches. The women complained how cold it was in the restaurant (the bathrooms were freezing!), although the men, being tough and rugged, were fine. The bathroom faucet and sink filled with rocks were unique touches. I always like places that do something a bit different in the bathroom.

THE STAFF -- There were a lot of people working the tables, even for a Friday night. As a customer, obviously, this was great, but it was easy to see they were probably overstaffed. Completely full at the bar and all tables, Azul Cantina probably sits about 50 people. That doesn't require 10 staff in the front. Still, again, no complains as a customer. Our waitresses were nice enough and replaced our lousy mojito with a magarita without complaint.

OVERALL -- In the right location, Azul Cantina would thrive. I know that many of my Fairmount neighbors have been clamoring for just such a restaurant for years. The food is fairly priced and there were no misses amongst the four of us. There were some minor glitches, but nothing that would prevent me from recommending the place wholeheartedly. Unfortunately, Azul Cantina's location and design may be its downfall. There just isn't anything all that attractive about the place, and the food can't always carry a restaurant in a location that has lost so many times. When we left at about 8:30 p.m. on a Friday night, about half of the tables were full. That always worries me.

THE CHECK: Came to about $150 for the four of us, including tip.

For the first restaurant on this yearly "adventure," Azul Cantina was a good start. Despite the lateness of our friends (we forgave them), it was a very good meal.

And now, on to the "Bs." Thanks to everyone who voted on the original entry. Hopefully you'll stick with this.

Ineligible restaurants for Round Two (the Bs):

• Bar Ferdinand -- With the Jose Garces (Amada, Tinto, Distrito) publicity machine, Bar Ferdinand sort of gets lost in the tapas realm, but it is a beautiful restaurant with some very good food. The almonds are fantastic.
• Belgian Cafe -- "Monk's Jr." arrived in Fairmount with a lot of fanfare, but there is little that separates it from the other mediocre gastropubs in the neighborhood.
• Ben & Irv's -- All Jews know Ben & Irv's. I end up there at least once a year after softball games. It's a tradition.
• Bennigan's -- Just kidding
• Bertucci's -- Still just kidding
• Bindi -- Excellent Indian food. It's not cheap, but among the best choices on the 13th St. corridor.
• Bishop's Collar -- It's easy not to take the Collar seriously, but the food is cheap and it is damn good. I really like the meatloaf sandwich. Too bad they got rid of the menus in the kiddies books -- that was one of those cool touches I love.
• Bistro 7 -- Some people really like Bistro 7. It's been OK when I'm gone before, but I wouldn't rush back.
• Bistro Romano -- Totally unmemorable. It stunk the one time I went years ago.
• Bistro St. Tropez -- They market this as a "romantic hotspot" because it's on a high floor of a Center City hotel. Don't waste your time.
• Black Sheep -- Good times drinking, but not eating
• Brasserie Perrier -- Boy was I surprised when I heard this closed on NYE 2008. Not sad, but surprised.
• Bridgid's -- I like their fried chicken.
• Brigid Foy's -- There is something that has always just been quite off about this place. It's in such a great location that it should kill, but it doesn't.
• Buddakan -- Perhaps the most well-known spot in the city for suburbanites. It's reputation is well deserved too -- it's just a cool place to go. Not my favorite certainly, but it's fun and the food is still good.
• Burger King -- Really just kidding